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Our tracker’s outstretched arm points to some treetops a few hundred meters away: its ability to detect the seemingly invisible is astonishing. Luke, our guide, turns off the Land Cruiser’s engine and turns around: “Can you see? Just past that clearing on the left.
Following his guidance through my binoculars, I pick out the majestic-looking bird: dark brown head with tufted crown, white breast, and piercing yellow eyes. Luke tells me: “Sometimes nicknamed the ‘air leopard’, it is a martial eagle, with a wingspan of up to 2.5m, one of the largest birds of prey in the world and the largest in Africa.” This predator remains on its perch for a few precious minutes and then suddenly takes flight and disappears into the distance.
I came to andBeyond’s Phinda Mountain Lodge in eastern South Africa on a birding safari. The lodge sits in an elevated position overlooking the 73,800-acre Phinda Private Game Reserve; its seven ecosystems offer an unusually varied habitat, from lush vegetation to open savannah. The foothills of the low Libombos mountains stretch 800 kilometers north to Mozambique, and the blue waters of the Indian Ocean are just 32 kilometers to the east.
Most visitors are here for the big game, but an impressive 436 bird species also make the reserve a popular birding destination, so andBeyond’s specialized itinerary lets me enjoy a lifelong hobby.
Much of our first morning is hijacked by my enthusiasm for identifying every bird we see, meaning we don’t get more than 200 meters from the lodge in the first hour. But in the afternoon we head directly to the dry sand forest, which is home to unusual endemic species.
Surrounded by an elephant exclusion fence, we leave the vehicle and set off on foot – as per strict protocol, our guide leads from the front with a high-caliber rifle in hand. Orchids and lichens grow in profusion, and some of the Libombo acacia trees are believed to date back more than 1,000 years. The dense vegetation makes it difficult to get a good view of the birds, but we still spotted many, including African green pigeons, the paradise flycatcher with its unmistakably long tail feathers, and the crested barbet. Next we are treated to the endemic Rose-throated Twinspot, a distinctive waxbill with a shiny head and a black breast with white markings. Existing in only a few other locations nearby, this is a favorite for many visiting birders.
My knowledge of birds – largely limited to the British Isles – is of little help here in South Africa, so my guide has been invaluable. However, I also had access to the world’s first AI-supported binoculars, released this year, that allow me to make positive identifications. The Swarovski Optik AX Visio (£3,820) combines high-quality optics (10×32) with bird identification software. You see the bird you want and, when you press a button, a suggested species appears on the heads-up display. Behind the scenes, the binoculars cross-reference the image and GPS coordinates with Merlin Bird ID’s extensive database of more than 8,000 bird species (Merlin’s app is divided into groups, allowing you to download extra information about the species found in a given region; I installed the South Africa package with 712 birds.)
Entering the vehicle once again, we came across zebras with red-billed oxpeckers picking ticks and parasites from their backs. A little further on, we glimpse a inspector from the South; Black and white shrike that also goes by the name of butcher bird due to its habit of impaling its prey on acacia thorns for later consumption. Then, as we pass a small water fountain, a bright color passes by before landing on a small branch; It’s a malachite kingfisher. Meanwhile, a three-banded plover moves actively along the water’s edge, searching for insects. Luke then spots her nest, which is little more than a shallow depression in the beach containing two small gray-spotted eggs.
Over the course of three days, the binoculars helped me correctly identify 68 species of birds. Although there are a few, around 30, that the technology has struggled with. Sometimes the bird is too far away, or it’s obscured by branches, or the image is blurry – but most of the time, with a good, clear view, the binoculars do an impressive job of identifying. Plus, because a photo is saved with each button press, I have a comprehensive photo diary for later review.
On my last day, as the sun sets over the horizon, we stop in a clearing next to the waters of the Mvubu dam, which makes a sublime setting for drinks. A handful of blue-cheeked bee-eaters soar above the still waters, a flock of white-faced whistling ducks complete their final flight, and nearby hippos quiet their growls for the night. Biltong and drinks finished, we returned to the vehicle and drove under a starry night sky. Sitting back, I reflect on my first birding safari experience – spotting over 100 species of birds, observing the big five along the way, and a myriad of other wildlife, it was as rewarding a trip as I could have hoped for.
Fergus Scholes traveled as a guest of and beyondin an abbreviated version of his nine nights Beyond Average Birdwatching in South Africa experience, which costs from £9,200 per share. Includes internal flights, dedicated safari vehicle and expert birding guide, accommodation, laundry, meals and drinks and beyond.com. Guests will be able to reserve a pair of Swarovski Optik AX Visio binoculars starting in July, POA
