Of the 129 climbers from 20 nations, qualifications have narrowed down the chosen few who will compete in tomorrow’s final across the 14 Paraclimbing sport classes.
Male B1
Aita Sho is once again the winner in the men’s B1. Aita was the only climber to overcome both routes and thus comes in first place. With a top route and hold 56, Spaniard Francisco Javier Aguilar Amoedo is second, with Romanian Razvan Nedu the third and final climber in tomorrow’s B1 final.
Male B3
There will be four nations represented in the men’s B3 final tomorrow, when Japan’s Hamanoue Fumiya, Spain’s Guillermo Pelegrin Gomez, America’s Andrew Martinez and Canada’s Chaz Misuraca face off for the medals. Hamanoue currently has the advantage when passing first with the help of a covered route.
Female B3
An overcome route helped Seneida Biendarra, from the USA, to also lead the overall women’s B3 classification. Biendarra was the only climber to overcome a route and advanced first, ahead of teammate Phoebe Barkan in second, Romanian Ionela Dragan in third and German Ivon Lawerenz in fourth.
AL1 male
Two of the four climbers present in tomorrow’s AL1 men’s final represent Austria. Angelino Zeller in first and Markus Posendorfer in second place will face American Tanner Cislaw, who shares second and fourth place Hatakeyama Naohisa of Japan.
AL2 male
North American Ethan Zilz reaches the final in first place and is the only climber in the men’s AL2 with a successful route. Italian David Kammerer is in second and enjoyed the qualifying courses: “The route setting was incredible. A steep route, very powerful with a jump at the end, I loved that one. The slab was also very beautiful. A beautiful set with cool movements where I had to think and be very technical and precise.”
With a night to reflect on his performance before trying to match or improve his current position, Kammerer said: “Now I’m going to relax and calm down and tomorrow I’ll try to do my best, be more precise, look at the route more carefully and just try to move forward.”
Gavin Nix is the second US climber in the final and is in third, with teammate Nathan Payne in sixth. Japanese Yuki Shuhei and German Nicholas Perreth are the other finalists.
AL2 female
The only climber to overcome a route in the women’s AL2 was Frenchwoman Lucie Jarrige. Not satisfied with one, the French climber surpassed both for her first place position. Australian Sarah Larcombe was second best, with two North American climbers following her. Morgan Loomis and Cail Soria are the American climbers hoping to defeat their rivals in tomorrow’s final.
Male AU2
It’s Germany vs USA in the AU2 men’s final, with home country odds favoring two of the three USA climbers. Kevin Bartke of Germany advanced first and will need to hold off Brian Zarzuela and Trevor Smith if he is to maintain the gold position.
Female AU2
Solenne Piret continued her good form in the women’s AU2, reaching the final first, ahead of second-placed Lucia Capovilla of Italy. There is domestic interest in the final, with Eleanor Rubin and Isabel Benvenuti also advancing from the eight competitors.
Male AU3
The men’s AU3 podium names are set with three until the final tomorrow, now it is decided which climber takes each step. In first place are the Romanian Liviu – Nicolae Matei and the Swiss Dominic Geisseler, who was the only one to lead a route. In third place is Canadian Shamus Boulianne.
RP1 male
Four nations will compete in the men’s RP1 with first-placed Frenchman Alois Pottier and German Korbinian Franck facing third-placed Okada Takuya of Japan and Glen Todd of Australia. The four passed the qualification of 14 climbers.
RP2 male
All four male RP2 finalists passed qualification with a top finish under their belt. However, in first place, the Spaniard Ivan Munoz Escolar had two. The other leaders on the route are Benjamin Mayforth from the USA, Phillip Hrozek from Germany and Manikandan Kumar from India.
RP2 Women
Austrian Jasmin Plank leads the women’s RP2, although she was in doubt to compete: “My climb went very well. I’ve been injured for about four weeks and I wasn’t sure if I could climb here, but I’m really glad I came and climbed.
“The routes were incredible. I loved climbing the first route because it was a very technical route and I was able to show what I can do. The second one was a little hilly, but both were amazing to climb.”
Against the Austrian will be Norwegian Dina Eivik and the two home climbers, Emily Seelenfreund and Melissa Ruiz, who progressed among 13 climbers combined from three sport classes – RP1, RP2 and AL1.
RP3 Men
Japan’s Takano Tadashi’s first two qualifications mean he is the only one to beat in the men’s RP3. Luke Smith, from Great Britain, is behind, in second, and ahead of third place, Igor Jean Silva Mesquita, from Brazil, and Frantisek Rys, from the Czech Republic, in fourth.
RP3 Women
There are four places for the women’s RP3 final, with two chances of a medal at home, two of them from the USA. Nat Vorel is in first place with Brazilian Marina Dias and Laura Heaton in third. The fourth and final climber is Slovenian Manca Smrekar.
Full results can be found at
The finals start at 12pm local time tomorrow (Wednesday 8th May) and will be streamed live on the IFSC YouTube channel.
News and updates about all Climbing events will be available on the IFSC website and on the Federation’s digital channels: Facebook, Instagram, XLinkedIn, and exclusively for the Chinese public, Douyin and Weibo.
