Our colorful convoy of rickshaws had just arrived at the marigold-orange 19th-century Kathgola Palace, which was beautifully reflected in a lake in front. I was impressed by the imposing four-story, Palladian-inspired mansion built by wealthy local merchants in Murshidabad, India.
To add to the moment, our boat’s crew arrived before us to offer snacks in the shade of a tree, fortifying us with small cups of delicious Indian chai and cookies before our guides led us around the property.
There were many excursions that impressed me like this on our weeklong 400-kilometer cruise from the town of Farakka to Calcutta on the winding Hooghly River (also known as the Lower Ganges). Our mode of transport was the very comfortable 40-passenger Raj Mahal, one of several river boats owned and operated by Assam Bengal Navigation (ABN), a family-owned Indo-British joint venture that also operates cruises on the Brahmaputra and in the Upper Ganges.
Although it is an incredibly fascinating travel destination, India can also be an incredible place to visit. I’ve visited many times, exploring by train, car and plane, as well as by boat, and have found that river cruises alleviate many of the challenges, making traveling around India convenient, safe and luxurious.
On this cruise, two daily tours were normally planned, one before lunch and one after, led by two excellent Indian guides who traveled with us during the week.
/Lunch-buffet-offerings-onboard-the-Raj-Mahal..jpg?n=4602&tr=w-500%2Cfo-auto "Lunch buffet offerings on board the Raj Mahal.")
Lunch buffet offerings on board the Raj Mahal. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
Highlights of the tour included a visit to a 200-year-old Hindu temple in Kalna, beautifully designed with 108 shrines to Shiva in two concentric circles. Another was a morning exploring the Indo-Islamic ruins of the ancient citadel of Gaur, hidden in plain sight on the edge of a quiet village; It was once one of the largest cities in India.
We walked through farmland, and one day we passed a handful of women in colorful saris harvesting rice, stopping their work to laugh at us taking photos of them. We walked through medieval towns sharing narrow streets with carts pulled by bicycles and oxen laden with vegetables, shepherds transporting their goats and cattle, and uniformed students cycling home.
Dickensian workshops that still carried out traditional trades such as brass and glass making were also on the agenda. We visited several impressive mosques from the 16th and 17th centuries and also colorful markets.
British passengers were especially interested in visiting the small monument at the site of the Battle of Plassey, where in 1757 the British defeated the local ruler, changing the course of Indian history. I was surprised to hear, even many decades after India’s independence, that many of the British guests on our trip believed that British rule had been largely beneficial to India.
Raj Mahal’s Sun Deck offered ample space to observe life on the river and along the river banks. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
The onboard experience
After these enlightening tours, there was nothing like returning to our luxurious ship and finding smiling crew members handing out scented hand towels and refreshing drinks – and cleaning our shoes before the next tour.
The Raj Mahal, built in 2014, has 18 spacious double cabins and four single cabins. All have air-conditioning and floor-to-ceiling sliding glass doors, as well as amenities like a coffee and tea set (real tea, not tea bags!) and a jar of delicious cookies that are refilled daily. Tasteful cabins feature rich woods and hand-printed Indian fabrics in soft colors. The bathroom, closets and storage were generous.
Like most European riverboats, the Raj Mahal has a large terrace filled with seats offering views of life along the river. Below deck, the windowed dining room offers buffet-style breakfast and lunch and dinner service. The delicious food focused on Indian curries, breads and vegetables. Western options were also available at all meals and the service was excellent.
Before and after dinner, there were films, talks by guides or, on several nights, traditional performances by local dancers and singers in the comfortable lounge, which also has a bar (drinks are not included in the rate). There was also a sari, dhoti and turban tying demonstration and a chicken curry cooking class (with samples!). A small spa offers massages.
/The-19th-century-Kathgola-Palace..jpg?n=9633&tr=w-500%2Cfo-auto "The 19th century Kathgola Palace.")
The 19th century Kathgola Palace. Photo credit: Heidi Sarna @QuirkyCruise
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Some important facts to remember:
Since most people travel in and out of Kolkata, a four-hour train ride at one end of the cruise is required to get to or from Farakka. This is done by ABN and is included in the cruise fare.
Also included in the rate: all shore excursions, meals, English-speaking guides, and transfers to and from hotels and train station.
All water on board is bottled and safe to drink; Eco-friendly glass bottles are replenished daily in the cabins and the same goes for tin bottles used on excursions.
For additional information, visit the ABN website.
